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Nov. 10, SPEARFISH, SD.
Dawn. The mechanic, a taciturn man, agrees it's the heater core. Says he
doesn't have the capability to replace a heater core. Can you bypass it? I
ask. He peers into the engine compartment. He nods. Give him an hour and a
half and he can disconnect the hoses that carry coolant into and out of
the heater core and hook them to each other, bypassing the core. That will
stop the leaking but will also leave me without heat. Heat schmeat. So
what if it's below freezing and I'm about to cross the Rockies tonight.
I'll have a big old V-8 Chevy engine a few inches from my feet, cranking
out more heat than I'll know what to do with. So onward! It's Missoula or
bust, baby!
Later: Lost and
hunting the bookstore in Missoula after dark, turn around by pulling into
an empty parking lot past a "Do Not Enter" sign. Next thing I
know, blue lights in the rear view. Jump out of car, saying, "I am so
lost." Cop gets out, saying, "Get back in the car, please."
Back in the car, Rosie's in full-bore, roaring, liver-eating hellhound
mode. Cop's lips move. I shout, "Pardon me?" Cop sighs and waves
me out of car after all. Points out "Do Not Enter" sign.
"Oh no," I say. Cop also points out burned out tail light.
"Oh no," I wail, "worse and worse!" Cop sighs again,
tells me to fix tail light, drives off. At the reading, tiny but
enthusiastic turnout of one plus bookstore owner. Then an interview at
local TV station. Ask weatherman what weather is like up in the Rockies
tonight. Weatherman reports snow accumulation -- just go slow, he says.
Leaving town, dutifully stop at Wal-Mart to replace tail light bulb. Drive
overnight toward Seattle. Follow weatherman's instructions, cross Rockies
very slowly through snow and slush. Vette's engine delivers no discernible
heat whatsoever. Keep adding layers: two undershirts, two sweaters, fleece
vest, jacket, long johns, jeans, hat, gloves, two socks, insulated boots.
Slush splatting against undercarriage makes Rosie nervous. She leans
against me so hard I can't move that arm; pants so hard windshield fogs
up. "Whatever you're afraid of," I grumble, "you're making
it that much more likely to happen."
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